Anti aging skin creams are designed to protect our skin and slow the aging process. Pharmaceutical companies make billions out of skin care products advertised as magic potions able to instantly reverse the season’s damage.
Moreover, these companies promise far more than just simple moisturizing, but their anti aging skin creams can “help boost oxygen microcirculation” and reset “the skin’s aging clock by converting resting stem cells”, even to stop the aging process, according to their advertising.
In addition, they incorporate ingredients that can “turn on digestive enzymes that will only go after scars and wrinkles” or “help promote collage production”. Basically, they take any old, dry, thinning and wrinkled skin and utterly transform it to a baby’s fresh skin.
The truth is that the creams do moisture, even the cheapest ones, and that indeed helps make the skin seem more supple and healthy. When it comes to the other claims, few studies have been published to show the products work as advertised or are safe to use.
According to Dr. Simon Yoo, Assistant Professor of Dermatology at Northwestern University’s Feinberg School of Medicine, “efficacy is very vague in terms of over-the-counter products”, and “without oversight, it is difficult to say whether these do anything”.
Meanwhile, the FDA has expressed some concerns regarding certain claims made by companies selling anti aging skin creams. Marketers are typically not allowed to state that their product alters the structure or function of the body or treats or prevents disease in order to make a drug claim.
For this reason, the FDA keeps a list of more than 80 companies, including beauty legends such as L’Oreal, Avon and Revlon, that it believes may be importing, manufacturing or shipping anti aging skin creams with drug claims.
In addition, the FDA has also sent several warning letters to cosmetics companies, mostly small ones, for making drug claims, said a spokeswoman for the agency.
Moreover, according to Dr. Vesna Petronic-Rosic, a dermatologist at the University of Chicago Medical Center, companies rarely publish studies showing their anti aging skin products are effective, though they do generally look into the potential for skin irritation.
There are also some companies that cite scientific evidence that anti aging ingredients work, however they decline to provide studies or show that the product actually contains enough of the substances to have an effect.
Common Ingredients in Anti Aging Skin Creams
The effectiveness of anti aging skin creams depends in part on the active ingredient(s). The most common ingredients that may achieve slight to modest improvement in the appearance of wrinkles are, as follows:
- Retinol
Retinol is a vitamin A compound, the first antioxidant to be widely used in non-prescription anti aging skin creams. Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals, i.e. unstable oxygen molecules that break down the skin cells and cause wrinkles.
Retinol is, however, less potent than the vitamin A derivative tretinoin, a topical element approved by the FDA for treating wrinkles. Unlike Retinol, tretinoin is available only by prescription. If you are pregnant or plan on becoming pregnant, avoid vitamin A derivates because they may increase the risk of birth defects.
- Hydroxy acids
Alpha hydrocy acids, beta hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids are sunthetic versions of acids derived from sugar-containning fruits. These acids are exfoliants, i.e. substances that remove the upper layer of old, dead skin, stimulating the growth of smooth, evely pigmented new skin. Hydroxy acids, however, increase your susceptibility to sun damage, so make sure to always wear sun screen during use and for at least one week afterwards.
- Coenzyme Q10
The nutrient coenzyme Q10 helps regulate energy production in cells. Some studies have shown reduction in fine wrinkles around the eyes, with no side effects, while other studies show that application before sun exposure protects against sun damage.
- Copper peptides
Copper is a trace element found in every cell. In products applied to the skin, it is combined with peptides, small protein fragments. Copper peptides enhance would healing, stimulate production of collagen and may enhance the action of antioxidants.
- Kinetin
Kinetin is a plant growth factor that may improve the appearance of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation with minimal irritation. It is not clear how it works, however it may help reduce wrinkles by helping skin retain moisture and by stimulating the production of collagen which is good for aging skin care. In addition, it may also be a potent antioxidant.
- Tea extracts
Black, green and oolong tea contain compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The most common ingredients found in wrinkle creams are green tea extracts.
The FDA does not evaluate cosmetic products for effectiveness, therefore there is no guarantee that any over-the-counter product will reduce your wrinkles. When judging the merits and properties of various anti aging skin creams, take into consideration their cost, the latest research, the concentration of active ingredients they contain, daily use, side effects and individual differences (always choose skin creams based on your skin type).